Surfing the Great White North
Recently my wife and I got take a real vacation. I cannot remember the last time that we actually took a vacation in the traditional sense of the word. I do believe that it was over two years ago. Anyway, we went up to a fantastic place on the coast of Vancouver Island. The natural beauty there is out of this world and the people all very friendly. The whole town operates on a different sense of time- at least that's what it felt like for us while we were there. It was also great for Martha and I to spend some quality time together. The exact names and locations of where we went need to remain nameless, they could be revealed for a small price, but I would rather not go there. The average person might be able to figure it all out by doing some research and looking at a map, however I would be over-stepping my boundaries if I let it all out, so I wont. The picture up above is the sunset from our camp. This is what it looked like every night of the four that we were there, 'nuff said.

One of our primary reasons for going on this trip was to do some surfing. Surfing in the northwest is all about timing, location and exposure. One needs to have a good wetsuit as the water is COLD, one will not last long if not well equipped. Martha and I are novice surfers but when conditions are right, we can get up and get some good rides in. On the morning of our third day I happened to have a great session- despite the zipper on my old wetsuit completely blowing out! I got a lot of good rides in and I was just so stoked. It was early in the morning, we were practically the only people out on this beautiful pristine beach, the sun was shining etc, etc. Oh, and a brief word on surfing. I have climbed, snowboarded and sailed all across the country. These sports are all fantastic and all give you a great natural high at some-point or another. But there is nothing that feels the way that surfing does. When you stand up and ride the wave the "stoke" is just on. It feels like floating. The other thing is that the ride is different everytime, because no wave is ever the same. It just feels so amazing to be in the ocean- it is just you and the board. A very scaled down and simple way of being. When you are surfing you are in a part of an element that is much,much larger than you- the ocean. When I am out there, I feel very small- small in a good way, a way of wonder. I think that is part of where the "stoke"comes from, you feel child like again. Damn, life is good!